Eastern Europe: Prague, Budapest and Vienna
Eastern Europe is one of my favorite European vacation spots of all time -- giving the "Old World" charm with
cobblestone streets, castles, cathedrals and original architecture. Depending on the amount of time allowed,
I recommend 3 nights in each city, just enough to comfortably explore each city without feeling rushed. Choose
from Prague, Vienna and/or Budapest.
I first explored Prague and Vienna during my annual Thanksgiving trip in 2000 with my partner, Bob and our friend
Charlene. This was Bob's first trip to Europe while Charlene traveled with me the prior year to Ireland, so she
was seasoned. Our hearts belonged to Prague and Vienna as compared to the more industrial Munich, Germany and we
never thought we'd return so quickly to stroll the cobblestone streets with our mulled wines while shopping the
Christmas markets.
After review a few tour operators and trying to decide on my 2002 Thanksgiving trip, I came across one that specialized
in Eastern Europe and had prices that just couldn't be true -- $900 for a week including airfare from NYC, 3 nights
accommodations, transfers, breakfast and 1/2 day cities tours in both Prague and Budapest! It was decided then and there
that I had to go and evaluate this tour operator before we began selling it to our clients.
What was previously a small group of travelers for this trip ballooned into 7 with an 8th person adding on just days
prior to our departure!
Prague, Czech Republic
Prague is the capital city of the relatively small Czech Republic which lies in
the heart of Europe, neighbouring with Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Poland.
There is a number of non-stop border crossings available with an excellent
connection by car, bus, train or plane. A valid passport, which does not expire
at least for six months, is required in order to enter the Czech Republic. There
is no need of an entry visa for most European countries and USA.
The official language is Czech, Slovak language being understandable. Most local
people have basic or possibly intermediate knowledge of English or German
language. In majority of hotels, restaurants, travel agencies, historical
monuments, shops and services the communication is possible in English, German
or perhaps French.
Prague is my hands-down favorite Eastern European city due to the fact that it was untouched by World War II,
leaving original architecture without being overrun by modern buildings. St. Charles Bridge is the central
focus with Prague Castle looming overhead. Dine in the underground wine cellars of a monastary at Restaurant
Peklo, sit in outside cafes and sip a cafe or hot chocolate (literally chocolate melted into hot milk!) and
shop for all the Bohemian Crystal you can carry back into the States!
Hotel
Our hotel was the 3-star Ibis located near the National Museum, just a short walk to the Metro for our ride
into the heart of Old Towne. Due to the floods during August 2002, a few of the Metro stops were out therefore
we had to walk a bit but the weather was wonderful so we didn't mind. The hotel was extremely clean and
quite European -- small by American standards but it was perfect for the price and our needs -- a place to
store our luggage and sleep! The one "problem" we found with this hotel was that it only offered double beds
throughout ... no twin rooms.
Touring
You'll find brochures in the airport and at most hotels offering walking tours of the city and although we
didn't take them, I'm going to sign up for at least one when I return. All are well priced and include
English guides.
Our packages include a 1/2 day city tour by bus, giving a good view of the city from a professional tour guide.
These tours aren't mandatory but they usually give a good history of the city and show you the major sites
allowing you to go back and visit at your leisure. Don't forget a small tip of a few dollars is appreciated
by your guide... and don't forget to ask questions or recommedations from the guides!
St. Charles Bridge is a beautiful, pedestrial-only stone bridge connecting the Malestrana and Old Towne,
giving breath-taking views of both sides of the river. No matter what you do you'll cross this bridge many
times, stopping for photos and bargaining with the artists selling their paintings. Everyone who has been
to Prague remembers the St. Charles Bridge!
Prague's Christmas Markets open just after Thanksgiving, offering every imaginable trinket and Christmas
ornament for locals and tourists alike. Food abounds, including grilled corn on the cob, roasted chestnuts,
mulled wines and more.
Dining
When it comes to restaurants, it's best to move away from the high-traffic areas around Old Towne's Clock,
giving better prices and quality of food. Of course the outdoor cafes are great for a quick coffee or hot
chocolate but the food tends to be expensive and, in my opinion, lesser quality.
Two favorites come to mind: The Red Wheel and Petklo. The Red Wheel is located just behind the Jewish Cemetery
and the Convent, offering traditional Czech cuisine at very reasonable prices. It's off-the-beaten path
therefore you might have trouble finding it but the search is worht it. We dined there as a group of 8 for
about $28.00 U.S. per person -- including appetizers, dinners, dessert and a few bottles of wine and water
for the table. Petklo is located at the top of the hill just past Prague Castle, nestled in the underground
wine cellars of the monastary. Although much more expensive, the wine cellar atmosphere, trickling water
and top-notch service makes it a great treat for any traveler.
Shopping
Czech is famous for their Bohemian Crystal, with shops around every corner hawking crystal of every color, shape
and quality. My sentiment is always, "If you like it, buy it!" Of course we spend the first day or two getting
the lay of the land and mapping out our shopping purchases and comparing prices so we get the best quality for
the price. One store to check out is Rott's located near Old Town's Clock -- a department store of crystal!
Best of all they offer tax-free shopping, a convenience for those making large purchases. Just to give an idea,
I purchased two small crystal bud vases at Rott's, totalling $36.00 U.S. -- a steal for the quality!
Budapest, Hungary
Budapest is a big larger than Prague and was a bit overwhelming for me at the beginning due to it's size...
still giving the Eastern European charm but with newer, more modern buildings.
Again we stayed at the 3-star Ibis Hotel located near the central market -- a large building where the lower
floor is filled with meat/vegetable purveyors while the top is stuffed with artisans selling everything from
lace and leather to food and trinkets. The hotel was, of course, located just a few blocks from the Metro,
giving us easy access to just about every part of the city we needed.
Separating Buda from Pest is the Danube, cut by many bridges joining the two sections. Surprisingly, Budapest
is the location of many natural hot springs, feeding the spas with medicinal sulfer baths, the most famous being
The Gellert.
Spas
We were all excited about the spas and medicinal baths in Budapest and the Gellert was to be the best of them all.
Fortunately my friends Elysia and Carl decided to split from the group and head over for a spa treatment on
their own. Their experience made us think twice... they were separated and although they were wearing their
bathing suits, they didn't feel too comfortable as no one else was! Yes, the prudish American comes out in all
of us at one time or another and this was it. The massage lasted about 15 minutes and they soaked in the
different pools, each with their own temperature before rejoining in the unisex pool to share their stories.
Quite different from American Spas however they were glad they experienced it ... and we were too! I think
the entire experience cost about $16.00 U.S.
Dining
Food in Budapest is similar to Prague in that there are many meat dishes offered however Budapest is the home to
paprika and just about every sauce had some amount of it in there. Overall we were happy with the food, with
prices being slightly higher than Prague but something to fit every budget.
Of note, seafood tends to be frozen and not fresh at all. When seafood is thawed and cooked, it tends to have
quite a "fishy" smell to it and can be unappealing. When in doubt, stick with the local specialites!
Shopping
Budapest is known for their lace and linens, the best place being the large market with artisans on the second
floor. Keep in mind that these are handmade laces and the prices reflect that -- a bargain by our standards
but still expensive. Bargaining is expected throughout this market so don't be afraid to ask for their
"best price."
Again, the Christmas Markets open just after Thanksgiving, offering smaller, lower-priced souvenirs and handmade
crafts. Everything from handpainted goose eggs for the tree to handsewn wine bags, perfect for Christmas gifts.
All Photos © 2002 Carl Cox, Incite http://www.Incite.com
Vienna, Austria
Although we didn't visit Vienna on this particular trip, we have traveled there before in a different group. I will
be updating this section as time permits to talk about that particular trip.
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